My Kunst am Bau wander through Vienna’s 16th district reads almost like a tale of three cities.
At the east end, neighborhoods of Turkish and Balkan immigrants; and also home to Brunnenmarkt.
A sweet testimony to the diversity of the district. Mohr in Hemd is an Austrian confectionary; Marlenka, from the Czech Republic; Italian Tiramisu; Balkan Baklava; and… Ben & Jerry’s?
As one heads further west, evidence of the district’s boom during the post WWI years with long streets filled with communal housing blocks, an occasional architectural interest here and there.
The hat store Nagy Hüte was founded in 1924 at this location, and is still family owned and operated.
I suspect these two establishments have been around quite some time, as well.
You’re reading that correctly. A savory strudel made from cow lungs, and it’s housemade!
The district is home to Ottakring Brewery; the famous Manner Wafers; and the equally as well-known Meinl Coffee. The Brewery began in 1837 and was purchased in 1850 by the Kuffner family. The family was forced to sell the brewery (even before the Anschluss) because of their Jewish heritage. Gustav Harner purchased the brewery and was also pushed out after the war. After liberation the Russians managed the brewery until Harner could legally prove ownership. The heirs of the previous owner, Moriz Kuffner, were compensated because of the expulsion leading to the sale. Fast forward to contemporary times: the company entered into an agreement about a decade ago with an Iranian firm to produce a non-alcoholic beer. From one state sponsor of terrorism to another.
A dedication to the re-opening of a park was taking place across the street, in which I spied local celebrity Ulli Sima. From posing with pumpkins grown atop a landfill to opening parks, hers has to be the funnest job in the city, whatever that job may be.
An Ottakringer pop-up at the park party for that 16er-Blech Frühshoppen. Natürlich.
In keeping with the spirit of this series, eventually I did find enough Kunst am Bau to write this post. Though, it’s always a bit of a bummer when the first piece is not the pretty mosaics I seek.
Graffiti aside, the second piece lived up to billing even if was not a mosaic.
I almost missed this one!
Kunst am Bau typical of the era.
An unexpected find, always my favorite.
A slightly shabby setting but still much to admire.
As a final reward for my effort, two gorgeous mosaics.
Over the better part of a day I wandered through three “cities” all within one district; from the Balkan markets through the blue collar streets and then finally into the posh outer districts where the streets are leafy and quiet and the villas, tucked behind gates. The pretty Schloss Wilheminenberg sits atop a hill overlooking the city in those parts; and we have hiked in the area, too. But none of that make for a proper Kunst am Bau post.